Tuesday, December 6, 2011

It Was All A Dream, I Used To Read Surfer Magazine...

It was the summer of 2003, SaffrSnax aka The Butcher and I were sophomore groms frothing at the bit when we got the call...  

Two spots had opened up on what would normally be a 3 year waiting list, it was now or never, pull the trigger or forever dream of what it would be like to experience the Dreamland that is the Island better known as Tavarua, Fiji.  Without hesitation, we booked the trip, packed our bags, and got there in the blink of an eye.  Once on the island, we surfed our brains out to the point where we'd have to take 6 ibuprofen just to be able to walk in the afternoons.  Life was good on the Island Life was perfect on the Island.  With nothing more than a bed, a fan, and a toilet inside our Bures; anything more seemed excessive in comparison to life's greatest pleasure that lay in our backyard; the perfect pealing lefts of Cloudbreak & Restaurants aka "Straunts".    


After 10 days of Cloudbreak all to ourselves and no more than 10 other people, we were convinced we had died and gone to heaven.  Although some of the veterans on the trip informed us that our swell period was somewhat sub-par to the level of perfection that the Island is capable of, in our minds we had surfed some of the best waves in our lives and nobody could take that away from us, nobody.


Our last day on the Island was bitter sweet, almost like all those times your mom had to pry your hands off of your favorite video game just as you were about to beat the final level...  Our last session saw a rising swell that went from waist to chest to overhead within an hour and didn't seem to stop growing as we were forced to get out of the water and rush to our flight back home.  As we sat on the flight, our minds filled with slide shows of green rooms, kava, and racing sections; no amount of magical cookies or sleeping pills could set our minds at ease.  We had tasted the forbidden fruit and we yearned for more...


By the time we got back to California, my inbox had a message from the trip leader stating that the swell had grown and Cloudbreak was too big to surf, Straunts was simply perfect, and Rights was pretty damn good too.  Whether or not I should have read that email will remain uncertain but one thing's for sure, the Island of Tavarua will forever be etched in my mind as a place where unparalleled happiness can be achieved with nothing more than a surfboard and some wax...
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